Build a Remington 700 bolt disassembly tool

If you own a Remington 700 and want to work on it, you’ll need a way to remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt.  One method is to use a coin in the slot on the firing pin (demonstrated here), the other is to use a bolt disassembly tool.   You can either buy a tool or make one.  If you want to buy one, the Kleinendorst tool, available from Brownells works well.  In this post, I’ll be building one.

TM 05539-IN, the Technical Manual for the USMC M40A3 and M40A5, (you can find a copy of it here) has a set of drawings for a Remington 700 bolt disassembly tool included in it.  I’ll be using those drawings to build mine.  During the course of this post, I’ll mention some dimensions, but the rest can be obtained from this manual.

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The following tools were ordered from Brownells:

All lathe work is conducted on a Grizzly 4003G gunsmith’s lathe.

The bolt disassembly tool consists of three pieces; a body, arm and handle.  The body is made out of a piece of 1″ diameter aluminum, 2.5″ long.  The handle and arm are both cut from 1/8″x5/8″ steel. The tool is held together by two 1/8″ roll pins; 1.0″ and .375″ long.

Building the bolt disassembly tool body

700 disassmbely tool blank

I start with a scrap of aluminum cut a little longer than the finished (2.5″) length I’ll need.

sqauring ends

The body is secured in a three jaw chuck (a set tru Gator) and the ends are faced.  A slight chamfer is added to both ends of the body.

center drill

One end of the body is center drilled.drill set up

A 3/4″ Silver and Demming drill is secured in a truck.  The dial indicator on the tail stock is used to determine the depth of cut.

drilling first hole

The 3/4″ diameter hole is drilled .781″ deep.

drilling second hole

Next, a .453″ (29/64″) hole is drilled 1.187″ deep.

stepped holes

This is what the end of the body looks like.  The bolt plug is held in this recess.

body in viseThe body is secured in the mill with a v-block.

DSC_0171

A .312″ wide, .920″ deep groove is cut in the end of the body.  A 2 flute, 3/16 end mill was used to make this cut in multiple passes.

grooving bodyThe body is repositioned in the vise.  A .190″ groove, .340″ deep is cut down the center of one side.

spotting pin hole

The body is rotated 90 degrees and a spotting drill is used to located the pin hole.

drilling through hole

A 1/8″ drill bit is used to finish the hole.  Once the burrs are removed and the sharp edges are broken, the body is complete.

Fabricating the handle

sqauring end of stock

The handle stock is secured in the mill vise with a set of parallels. An end mill is used to square and locate the end of the handle.

spotting holesBoth holes are spotted.

drilling handle holes

Two .136″ (#29 drill) holes are drilled.
rounding off handleThe end of the handle is rounded on a belt grinder.  The handle is complete.

Fabricating the bolt disassembly tool arm

drilling arm hole

The arm is squared in the mill.  It has one 1/8″ hole in it.  The hole is spotted and drilled.

laying out arm

The bar stock is coated in Dykem and layout lines scribed.

milling arm The arm is secured in the milling machine vise.  An end mill is used to remove shape the arm.

arm on sander

The square edges on the arm need to be rounded at the belt grinder.

edges knocked off on sander

The arm is ready.

Putting it all together

assembling tool

A .375″ long 1/8″ roll pin (ground one down from a 5/8″ long pin) connects the arm to the handle.  The arm and handle are connected to the body with a 1/8″ roll pin that is 1″ long.  The pin is driven with a roll pin holder (top left) and driven flush with a roll pin punch (bottom left).

USMC tool next to commercial tool

The completed bolt disassembly tool (left) next to a Kleinendorst tool from Brownells.

slides over firing pin shroud

To use the tool, slide it over the bolt plug…

lock down and unscrew…and engage the arm with the handle, retracting the firing pin.  Now the firing pin assembly can be easily unscrewed.

You may have noticed the parts aren’t coated in a finish.  I’ll coat it in Cerakote once it warms up.

Check out Rifleshooter.com’s “Project Guns” page for more gunsmithing posts!