Chamber options when barreling a Remington 700 receiver are limited by action length and the inside diameter of the bolt face. If the action has a 223 (.384″) bolt face, that means 308 (.473″) or Magnum (.535″) cartridges aren’t an option unless the bolt is replaced, or the bolt face is modified. On Remington 700s, this usually means replacing the factory extractor with either a Sako or M16 style system.
In this post, I’ll be bushing the bolt face on an old Remington 700 ADL and installing a Badger Ordnance M16-style extractor kit. This rifle was manufactured as a 270 Winchester, but will be fitted for a new barrel and chambered in 7mm Remington Magnum.
Badger Ordnance makes M16-style extractor kits for standard (.308), magnum and Lapua sized cartridges. I selected the M16 extractor over the Sako style extractor because installation requires standard sized end mills and it is secured by a roll pin. Sako extractors require specialized end mills and are much more difficult to remove and install.
The Badger Ordnance M16-style extractor kit includes an extractor, spring, and pin. Installation instructions, with detailed measurements, can be found here. This particular kit, part number 306-91, is used by the Naval Surface Warfare Center in Mk 13 sniper rifles.
Bushing a bolt face and installing an M16 extractor is a machinery dependent operation. Both a metal lathe and milling machine are required. Additionally, the bushing needs to be silver soldered in place.
The following items were ordered from Brownells:
- Badger Ordnance M16-style extractor kit
- La Bounty bolt fixture
- 3/8′ High-speed steel turning kit
- Hi-Force 44 solder
- No.4 Comet flux
- Heat Stop heat control paste
- Remington 700 Sako extractor installation jig
- #43 drill
- 1/4″ Solid carbide center cutting end mill
- 1/8″ Solid carbide center cutting end mill
- Do-Drill cutting oil
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All lathe work is conducted on a Grizzly 4003G gunsmith’s lathe.
First step is to make the bushing. I’m using a section of old barrel for this.
A micrometer is the proper tool for checking the outside diameter of a work piece on the lathe. It gives more accurate readings than a set of calipers. In this case the outside diameter needs to be .625″.
A high-speed steel boring bar cuts in the inside of the bushing. The diameter is cut .015″ under sized so it can be machined once it is soldered into place.
The firing pin assembly, ejector and extractor are removed from the bolt. The exactors on old Remington 700s, like this one, are secured in place with a pin (this has been replaced with a snap in version in current models). Note the pin near the front of the bolt nose.
Drifting the pin with a punch allows the extractor to be removed.
The bolt is now secured in a La Bounty bolt fixture.
The fixture is mounted in the lathe’s four-jaw chuck. A dial indicator is used to dial the bolt on the lathe. A Remington bolt is made of three pieces, the handle, body and head. Upon close examination, the bolt head can be identified (it is pinned and soldered to the bolt body). The bolt should be dialed in off of the bolt head.
A high-speed steel boring bar is used to remove the extractor rim and open the bolt face to a diameter of .625″.
The bushing is test fit in place.
The bolt is secured in a Multi-vise. All surfaces are degreased.
For best results when silver soldering, the parts should be tinned. To do this, the outside of the bushing is coated in flux, the part is heated with a torch, and the solder is allowed to flow on the surface. While the solder is still melted, a piece of steel wool is used to wipe the excess solder from the surface. I use a portable MAPP torch I bought from Home Depot to heat the pieces.
The inside of the bolt nose is coated in flux and the bushing is inserted. Heat Stop, heat control paste is used to protect the rest of the bolt. The bolt is a hardened part, excess heat could soften the bolt and make the rifle dangerous to fire, possibly causing injury or death. For this reason, I am using Brownells Hi-Force 44 solder, with a relatively low melting point of 475 F. I am careful not to overheat the bolt. Note: I am using No.4 Comet flux.
The bushing soldered into place.
The bolt is dialed in on the lathe. The bushing is trimmed flush with the bolt nose and the inside of the bushing is turned to the correct inside diameter, .536″. A slight chamfer is cut along the inside edge. Since this rifle will be getting a new barrel, I also take the time to clean up the bolt face, and the front and rear of the recoil lugs. These cuts wouldn’t be advisable in applications where the same barrel will be used- this would increase head space.
Trued recoil lugs.
The bolt is now secured in a Brownells Remington 700 Sako extractor installation jig. The jig is secured in the milling machine’s vise. The jig orients the bolt at 30 degrees for the extractor cut. An edge finder is used to locate the center and front edge of the bolt.
A 1/4″ solid carbide center cutting end mill is used to make a cut .115″ deep, 1.26″ long. A second cut, .210″ deep is made towards the rear of the bolt, this cut houses the hinge and spring of the extractor system.
The 1/8″ end mill is used to clean up the front edge of the extractor spring and hinge cut.
The bolt is rotated 90 degrees. I used a square to do this bolt. A better method would have been to index the bolt with a collet block and a Remington 700 false center.
The 1/8″ end mill is used to spot the hinge pin hole. Note- this is a good view of the extractor cut.
The hinge pin hole is located with a center drill and drilled with a #43 drill.
A 3/32″ chucking reamer is used to finish the hole.
Burrs are removed with a quick pass from some India stones.
The finished extractor cut.
The extractor is now installed. Works great!
One last step- the bolt nose recess must be opened up to .785″ (most factory guns are .705″). Since this rifle is getting a new barrel, I don’t have pictures of it yet.
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